Friday, July 27, 2012

The Surprises Just Keep Coming!

We were able to sleep in a little bit today which was a nice treat. Our driver picked us up and dropped us at the corner of a traditional Indonesian market where we met Yuna. It was clear that this was nothing like a grocery store and that only locals frequented this area.
Yuna brought us in to the building which was about the size of a Costco. It was all open and there were hundreds of vendors selling fresh fruit, vegetables, fish, meat, Indonesian food, etc. Jennifer and I could not believe our eyes. There was SO much to see! The vendors, like so many others, tried to speak to me thinking I was Indonesian. I think they believe I am Jen's guide. It's quite humorous to watch.








































The enormity of the building and the variety of foods was so beautiful and interesting. The vendors were very kind inviting us to take pictures (unlike the grocery store), especially in the meat section which left something to be desired. Yuna was patient with us answering our endless questions. She even purchased some traditional Indonesian snacks for us to have later in the day!











With groceries in hand, Yuna took us back to her school where we finally observed Yuna's class! We are usually teaching so it was a real treat to actually just watch and assess. Because the school year just began, Yuna is still getting to know her students, but it is obvious she is a very good teacher. She is warm and kind. She has a wonderful sense of humor, which I love. I think the students already feel connected to her. It was interesting to see some similar get-to-know you activities and expectations.
During Yuna's class, Jen checked her email and found that someone had sent her a message asking if she was okay. There was a 6.6 earthquake in Indonesia. We didn't feel a thing, but we immediately worried about our other colleagues who were spread across the country, some even on other islands. I texted with my husband who confirmed the quake and said there was no warning for a tsunami. Thank God. I suddenly felt a little more homesick.

After Yuna's class, she escorted us out to wait for the driver. We were to go to Insan Harapan, a local junior high school. We were asking Yuna a few questions about who or what we might see when she screamed, "Oh my God! I forgot to tell you! You are teaching ALL of them!" What? Come again? What did you say? Yuna explained that they were gathering all of the students for us to teach all at once. Jen and I, wide-eyed, gulped as our car pulled up. We had a five to ten minute drive to figure out what the heck we would be doing with hundreds of junior high students.
Principal Rita Fadilah warmly greeted us. I already felt unnerved knowing they were going to start to gather the students. Ms. Fadilah brought us to the office where we met Assistant Principal Fatnu Siam Soiwatik Rahayu and a student teacher, a former journalist who spoke impeccable English. After brief introductions and "signing in" (a detailed form we had to complete with everything but our social security number!), we were given a special gift. They handed us each a yama (batik pants that are generally used for martial arts or yoga-type activities). They were beautiful! Jen was wearing a dress that would be hard to sit in so we figure it was partially to solve this problem.


















We were taken to a restroom (that wasn't all that sanitary). Jen and I tried to balance on our borrowed slippers - shoes were not allowed in the school - while we changed to a live audience (the assistant principal and two female students who seemed mesmerized). Although a tad bit awkward, Jen and I rocked our new looks. The yama is wonderfully comfortable and we were thrilled to be able to take them with us.

Back to the office while the staff filled a very crammed area with hundreds of students. At our request, they quickly set up a computer and LCD projector so we could use some of our prepared work. I scrambled to run through activities in my mind that could work with junior high kids who were still learning English. Then, it hit me. Link Crew activities. It was worth a shot.

The administration had quite the build up to our introduction. We were kept in a "holding area" while they shared all of the information we had filled out on the paperwork when we first arrived. Finally, we made our entrance to roaring applause. The boys sat on one side and the girls on the other. I will admit, I was nervous and sweating (but you always do that in Indonesia). Before long, I had the students yelling out parts of "Old McDonald" while I channeled my Activity Director's energy to mimic his leadership in such an activity. Jen and I continued by presenting on the U.S., California, and our schools. The students were high energy and we occasionally stopped to use the same discipline strategies we would with junior high kids at home. There is no doubt, kids are kids no matter where you are in the world. We finished with student involvement - lots of singing and dancing. Considering the fact that we were thrown to the wolves unexpectedly, we did beautifully.














The students, staff, and administration seemed thrilled with what we had done and we endured what seemed like a million photos. No joke. Group after group. The students eagerly waited to talk with us about everything from music to education to dance. Some just giggled and said, "Oh God! I can't believe this!" They treated us as though we were superstars. Some acted as though they would pass out from a mere hug or squeeze on the shoulder. They wanted our email, Facebook, twitter. It was tween insanity.
















We were given a tour of their beautiful school. It was refreshing to see colorful, decorated rooms. This campus looked much more like it belonged to the students. When it was time to go, the administration presented us with lovely certificates of appreciation. Jen and I, drenched in sweat and wearing our yama and slippers, said goodbye to one of the kindest, most appreciative group of educators I have ever met. Our very own groupies (no joke) even followed us all the way out waving and giggling as we drove away.




























Back in the hotel, we took our first breath. We cleaned up and had a wonderful lunch in our mall. (Yes, we consider it "our" mall now.) We even spent the extra dollar to order two desserts that had chocolate and cheese - strange, but incredibly popular here. It's not as bad as it sounds. We then headed back to our Starbucks. It's the only way we can stay awake for the afternoon activities. The coffee and work time is great and we love the Ramadan special!















With a little more rest, we were picked up by the school van (half an hour late - apparently the driver forgot to pick us up). The van also contained eight lucky female students who were invited to join our breakfast at their teacher's home. Jen and I were very curious to see an actual Indonesian home. It was a part of the culture we had not yet seen.

Ms. Eva eagerly welcomed us to her home. We immediately sat in her entrance area in a circle on a carpet. Jen and I spoke with the students while Eva busily prepared food and brought it out to a nearby table. She was very concerned that we might think some of the food was strange and we had to reassure her that we liked to try new things. Eating on the floor was a new experience. We talked and ate. It was interesting to watch them eat with their hands so expertly and excuse themselves quietly to another room so that they could pray. I love that I have never felt uncomfortable with their religious beliefs, that they have not forced uncomfortable situations. Everyone is respectful and lovely.














I didn't see much of Eva's home and I wasn't comfortable asking for a tour. I met her husband, daughter, son, and nephew who stayed in another room watching TV although we asked them to join us. I saw her kitchen which was bare, a little dirty, and contained a very small refrigerator. Before long, it was time for goodbyes. It was such a unique opportunity and it was clear that she had honored us with special food and drink. I'm sure she spent more on the meal than she could afford. Their hospitality knows no bounds.
Jen and I were exhausted. We went for our nightly bingtang to unwind and found ourselves retiring not long after. Our brains were fried after such a long day. I think we have learned we have to constantly prepare ourselves mentally for the unexpected. The show must go on...
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Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Are We Moviestars?

Last night was one of the most restful sleeps I've had since arriving in Jakarta/Tangerang. Even the calls to mosque didn't completely wake me this morning. I think exhaustion finally won.

Jen and I again met for breakfast at 6:00 am. Breakfast was far more enjoyable this morning as compared to yesterday since my stomach seems to be settled for the time being. Thanks heavens. Well rested and with full stomachs, we were ready to tackle a day of teaching.

As instructed, we waited in the lobby for our driver who we were told yesterday would be on time today. Almost thirty minutes later, we started to worry. After all, we were supposed to be teaching a class promptly at 7:00! I had the hotel call Yuna on her cell phone. Yuna apologized profusely on the phone explaining that the driver had overslept and someone was coming to get us immediately. Minutes later, a new driver arrived to take us through the polluted air and crowded streets to our school. The air was so thick with pollution today that I coughed and gasped for air. Jen and I covered our mouths and noses to help our breathing and eagerly anticipated our escape from the outside.

Yuna was waiting in front of the school for us and rushed us to our first English class (12th graders). Class was well in to session so Jen and I assumed we may not be teaching. Out of breath and out of sorts, we entered the room and the teacher immediately handed the class to us. So much for a breather.

Without missing a beat, Jen and I started our lesson on "The Gift of the Magi", which was being carefully filmed... several times. The students did beautifully keeping up with us. They were interested and engaged during our activities, although I had to pry some of them to participate. True to my teaching at home, I just started calling on students - there are no free passes in my room. Jen and I were a flawless team. Again, we had little to no practice, but we appeared to have worked together for a very long time. (Several of the Indonesian teachers commented on this.) We have similar teaching styles and can naturally communicate with even a look. I'm so lucky to have such a wonderful teaching partner!

After teaching two periods of Ms. Eva's 12th grade English, she repeatedly thanked us and told us how much she learned. We immediately had two periods of 11th grade students to teach. Ms. Emeng introduced us and the students, as always, were fabulous. They were full of interesting comments and questions like the groups yesterday. They wanted to know how American teens live, what boy/girl relationships are like, what "Sin City" was about, what the "American Dream" was, the definition of "American culture", and what the CIA, FBI, and Pentagon entail.



























Jennifer and I did our best to keep up. I think the students think we are quite entertaining as we are pretty outgoing compared to their own teachers. We make jokes, laugh (a lot), and have taken to simultaneously breaking in to a funny dance every time their bell, which isn't a bell at all but funny music, starts to play. It's difficult to tell how intimidated they are. It's obvious they want to talk to us, ask many questions, and take pictures, but they seem to restrain themselves most of the time. The teachers were thrilled with our teaching and took endless pictures and video. We are definitely the stars of this Islamic show.

During a short break Jennifer opted to go to the restroom. I made a pledge to hold it unless absolutely necessary. I temporarily had the classroom all to myself so I was able to sneak a drink of water and snack. I still haven't figured out how they are able to work all day without food or water. When Jennifer returned, she explained she had to use a standing toilet. Ugh. Glad I held it.

Although we teach more classes each day at home, we both felt completely exhausted. Perhaps this is because we are sleep-deprived or because we are constantly "on" in the classroom or because it's so hot. Who knows? It's probably a mixture. We were so happy to be on our way back to the hotel where we quickly dropped off our things and then found a fabulous lunch spot where I dined on tempura Ramon. Yum!
We then made our way to Starbucks and worked on our blogs for several hours. The coffee tasted heavenly. We giggled as we sat and reflected on our strange, but thrilling experiences. It felt like a Starbucks grading day that I often have with friends at home.
Home. I'm starting to really feel the pangs of missing everything - my children, my husband, my family, my friends, my bed, familiar food, brushing my teeth with tap water. A lot of people have contacted me the last two days and it was a reminder that my other world is waiting for my return. It suddenly made me long for the familiar.

We decided to go back to the hotel to rest a bit before our pickup. Another change of plans (we are getting used to a lot of these too). We were going to head back to the school to observe a student activity and have break-fast (a break from the fast) with some staff members.

Upon arrival, we noticed that the students were no longer in uniform. It didn't dawn on me that we would get to observe them in a more comfortable state. The male students were participating in a group cooking contest. They purchased their own ingredients and made a dish (most included chocolate or some type of sugar). The girls watched and cheered them on, occasionally telling them all of the things they were doing incorrectly. We were interviewed on camera by a student on our thoughts of the contest. Who knows where it will end up! It was SO much fun to see them smiling and laughing in a more relaxed setting.








































Yuna gave us a more thorough tour of the campus showing us the various housing, the student work area, the medical center, the cafeteria, and the mosque. They certainly seem to have their own little world within the gates of this beautiful campus.


















We learned quite a bit more information as well. While the school only has 355 students, 3,000 students applied last year and only 120 students were selected to attend. This school, as well as one other, is intended for poor students who show tremendous academic potential. The government provides scholarships to attend. These students are essentially the best of the best from the underprivileged. They must be quite dedicated - school begins with prayer at 4:00 am and continues until 3:00 pm. They also go to school most of the year with very few breaks. (Our students have NOTHING to complain about!) The male and female students are usually pretty segregated, except in class, during extracurricular activities, and at "Devil's Corner," the one corner where the male and female streets/walkways briefly intersect. It would be unimaginable to American students.

Jen and I were then escorted in to a dorm office where we met several teachers who also served as residents in a way. They lived on campus and were responsible for approximately 60 students. I couldn't believe their commitment - wake at 3:00 am and either work or chaperone until almost 11:00 pm. I can't figure out the motivation as they do not receive any extra pay! Perhaps the housing is the draw? We met children of teachers who were just beautiful.
We were invited to sit on the floor as students and teachers brought in endless food for break-fast. Jen and I knew this was a very special honor. The teachers had prepared a very special feast and invited us to join them. There was a call from outside which indicated that it was officially sunset and that we could eat. We drank our coconut milk and ate rice, chicken, dates, steamed buns with bean paste inside, etc. It was quite delicious. I observed as the teachers skillfully ate with their hands using the rice as a scoop to sop up other food. I expected all of them to gorge after waiting to eat all day, but they politely ate a healthy helping and then many of them excused themselves so as to go pray.
Yuna and another teacher then took us to the dorms to show us how the students lived. I must admit, it was hard for me to see. I know this is probably an honor and special living for some, but I couldn't imagine my own children living here. The rooms were similar to a college dorm - four to a room with bunk beds, desks, dressers, and a shared bathroom. However, they were hot, stuffy, seemingly dirty, and it was against the rules to hang anything on the walls, so the rooms appear very bare and lonely. I kept thinking of the young lady I saw on a phone (it was her allotted time to call home) who was crying. It seems this school, while an amazing opportunity, is also an island.














It had been a long day so we made our way back to the hotel. We braved the grocery store again to pick up some spices and treats and then stopped by a restaurant for bingtang to go. It was back to our rooms where we decompressed and laughed until our bellies ached and we cried. It would be impossible to survive this adventure without these moments. Jen and I constantly marvel that we are in the middle of Indonesia on our own. We really must be stars.


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Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Amy in Surreal-land

Today started with a very, very early morning. Somewhere between 3:30 and 4:00 in the morning, I head what sounded like fireworks, bells, and yelling. We later learned that it was the calling to mosque. (At least I didn't have someone pounding on the bed like Jennifer's neighbor.) Needless-to-say, there was no going back to bed. In addition, my stomach was not feeling right. Uh oh. Wouldn't it be ironic if it was the Wendy's from lunch yesterday?

Jen and I were ready to go at 6:00 and left for our free hotel breakfast. It was an amazing spread of Indonesian food, some American food, pastries, breads, fruit, porridge, juices, coffee, tea. We continue to be amazed that we are paying a mere $50.00 a night for our room and we receive free breakfast and eight free movie tickets.

We were told we would be picked up in our lobby at 6:30 am to be taken to our school, MAN Insan Cendekia. Our driver arrived twenty minutes late. (We are getting accustomed to "Indonesian time".) It was probably for the best because I was still having stomach issues. Nothing a little Tums and Pepto Bismal couldn't take care of!

Once our driver arrived, we were on the road to school. We noted the polluted air and observed people wearing surgeon's masks. It's difficult to understand how people can breathe this air all the time. Before long, we arrived at our school and were greeted by a very enthusiastic Yuna who eagerly introduced us to anyone within a mile radius.














MAN Insan Cendekia is a boarding school and students apply from all over the country. I've determined that because of its competitive nature, it obtains some of the best and brightest. The campus is quite large, especially considering there are only 355 students. It appeared to be much nicer physically than the other schools I've visited.

We were introduced to Yuna's principal, whom she explained was nervous to speak English to us so he opted to have Yuna translate. He was clearly excited we were there and asked our permission to videotape us teaching, which we welcomed. After pictures and thanks, we headed to the teacher work room which was fascinating. Every teacher in the school had his/her own cubicle area in which to plan, grade, and relax. It was a fun concept that I think I would enjoy. Easy collaboration and family-oriented. (It might be hard to do with all 100 staff members at my school!)














Next, we headed to Yuna's first class, 10th grade English. Yuna explained at the entrance of the building that we needed to remove our shoes. (We never fully understood why, but we think some people may live in the building and they are trying to avoid dirty hallways?) Laughing, Jen and I (in our long skirts that now dragged on the ground) removed our shoes and pondered what it will be like to teach without shoes on. We would know very shortly.

We waited outside Yuna's classroom door as she prepared her students. The room seemed to buzz with anticipation. We entered to many, many smiling faces. Jen and I hadn't "practiced" anything so it was going to be interesting to see how we would suddenly team teach.

The students were polite and enthusiastic as Jen and I introduced ourselves and ran through several activities with them while teaching them about the United States and California. Participation took prompting, but it didn't take much. We encouraged them to ask questions and were surprised by the complexity of some of their questions, such as: What are the differences between democrats and republicans? What is the difference between British English and American English? Is there really a mafia in the U.S.? How do students from Indonesia get scholarships to American universities? How have things changed in the U.S. since 9/11? What do Americans think of Muslims?














After 60 minutes, we gave the students American flag pencils and it was like we had handed them pieces of gold. Every student grinned from ear to ear while saying, "Thank you, ma'm." We took pictures and they were beside themselves. Some asked to take more photos.
Yuna quickly escorted us out - we had to get to our next class. (Teachers move, not the students in 10th grade.) We got to put our shoes back on and travel to another classroom. On our way there, another teacher stared and commented that I looked "like a colleague's dead wife." I wasn't sure how to respond, but it gave us a good laugh later on. Yuna's students were so happy as we entered. We had more time this period (90 minutes) which was good because we ran out of time during the first class.















This group of students was similar to the first: enthusiastic, cute, smart, and lots of fun. Jen and I noted how much they were like our own students. It felt good to get back in to the saddle of teaching. We even had time to teach some songs, including "This Land is Your Land", "Head, Shoulders, Knees, and Toes", and the "Chicken Dance" (which many of them knew!). Again, we finished by giving the students gifts - candy wrapped in American flag packaging, which they would have to save until later due to Ramadan. Many of the students whispered about keeping the packaging once they ate the candy. Too cute for words. During our pictures, I put my arm around a young lady. She screamed, "Oh my God! Oh my God!" She leaned in to me; she was that excited about being near me. They all were. Most of the students came up and took my hand to place to their cheeks as a sign of respect and thanks.
After class we headed back to the teacher work room. The teachers were as eager to meet us as the students and it seemed they all wanted a piece of us. Many asked that we come and teach in their classes. One teacher in particular was trying to corner the market and begged that we teach four of her classes. We bargained to two. To our surprise, she asked us to teach a piece of literature, "The Chapel". We agreed thinking there would be plenty we could teach with a short story, although neither of us were familiar with the piece.

Jen and I took our copies over to our work area and started reading. Jen was on the computer when I looked up with horror in my eyes and grabbed her leg. "Oh my God," I said breathlessly. The teacher had asked us to teach a story which included two rapes, a teen pregnancy, a death, all with a touch of racism. This was to be our first lesson with Muslim students we had never met. Jen and I stared at each other with mouths gaping. What do we do??? We explored our options: Go ahead. Talk to Yuna. Find another story. Run.

Cultural differences. Cultural differences. Cultural differences. I had to keep telling myself this and reminded Jen as she started to panic. About that time we were approached by the teacher. I politely told her that we did not feel comfortable with this particular story but we would be happy to teach something like figurative language, grammar, or another story. Confused, she asked why we were not comfortable. Awkwardly, we explained. She was very kind and felt bad as though she had offended us. We quickly made several suggestions and opted to print off "The Gift of the Magi". So, we had transitioned from teaching rape, death, and racism to teaching Christianity... to Muslims.

At this point, we wanted to go, but not before being stopped by two other teachers. One asked that we prepare to teach about the American education system. Another asked that we prepare to teach a report of information on an animal. Flabbergasted, we went to find our car. Reality hit. No more air-conditioned car. A junky 10 person van was our carriage home. All we could do was laugh.

Relieved to be in our hotel, we rested and then went to find a late lunch. As I swallowed my chicken in peanut sauce (one of my favorites), I started to feel human again. We treated ourselves to Chewy Juniors (strange eclairs). Back in the room, I quickly faded and took a life-saving nap. When I woke, Jen and I had to get started on our homework. After all, we had a number of lessons to prepare!






After a couple of hours worth of work, we decided it was time to enjoy ourselves. We took our complimentary movie passes and made our way to the theater to see Batman, a traditional Indonesian film. (ha ha) We opted not to eat dinner and ordered popcorn and fries (with hot sauce) at the theater (although the fish balls were tempting). When we made it to our assigned seats (yes, assigned seating!), we marveled at the fancy chairs and mile of legroom. It was when we watched popcorn and drinks personally delivered on a tray to movie-goers that we confirmed Indonesian film watching was far superior to our own.





The film was fantastic and I temporarily felt like we were in the U.S., but we were exhausted. It was time to walk the ten feet to our hotel (after passing the Indonesian teens breakdancing) and climb in to bed. Tomorrow was to be filled with more unknown adventures and surprises. Who knows? I could be chasing a white rabbit.




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